Mish Mash Maxi

Doesn’t sound that attractive does it?? Anyway, what I mean is that I have put different elements together to make another maxi. I bought the Flora pattern for the wrap over bodice, but thought I’d give the other variation a go first in some inexpensive viscose I got on eBay. I wanted another dress for my trip to France, I have made a couple of Monetas (yet to be blogged, I’m cutting out my third!) which are knit fabrics so I wanted to try a pattern for wovens. As usual, I had several adjustments to make, I also lowered the front neckline and widened the straps, slightly more flattering for me. The skirt though is my self drafted A line, I made it wider to incorporate a couple of pleats at the waist.

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It’s a wearable muslin really, but I have been wearing it a lot!
Last week I went to Bordeaux with my friend, we spent one night in the city before going on to a cooking holiday in Lot et Garonne. It’s a city I’ve not visited before, when I lived in France I was further north in the Loire valley and given any opportunity to go to France I usually make a beeline for Paris, so it was good to go somewhere new. I really liked it, it’s a very elegant city, helped in our case by arriving on Bastille Day, so lots of activities and fireworks in the evening.

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The following day we got a train to our second destination – Le Gargantua about an hour away, an idyllic location in the middle of sunflower fields in the middle of nowhere!

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We spent 3 days there visiting local markets and producers and cooking different dishes to learn new skills. We had an amazing time and it was very hot! My maxis came in very handy!!

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As I’m a teacher I’ve now got 6 weeks to practise my new skills….and maybe do a little more sewing.

Made to Measure Maxi

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It’s Summer! Well for us in the UK it’s gone over 20 degrees so we’re all walking round in shorts… I had a lovely day in London on Saturday meeting the lovely Chinelo. If you’re a) not a sewist or b) been locked in a dark room, you will not be aware of the Great British Sewing Bee. To say I was an avid viewer is an understatement, I had the whole lot on series record and sons had strict instructions not to delete anything or I may have forced them to leave home. Chinelo was one of this season’s contestants, her innovative way of cutting fabric and designs was really refreshing, instead of using paper patterns, she transferred measurements directly to the fabric to create designs that were bespoke and beautiful! When I found out she was doing workshops to share some of her skills, I jumped at the chance to meet her and learn some more. So off I went to London Town on Saturday, the longest day of the year, I got there early so had a little walk along the river…

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I made my way to the venue and set to work with the other ladies on the course. Chinelo was lovely, very patient and showed us step by step how to make a maxi dress. We used lovely drapy viscose which was provided for us, we made the skirt part on the bias, drawing our measurements straight onto the fabric, next we made the bodice. We sewed it together then elasticated the waist and gathered the shoulders. I didn’t quite finish on the day, but I only needed to finish the shoulders and the hem. And there it was! A made to measure dress! I loved the fabric I chose, here’s a pic of me with the lovely Chinelo and my dress and fabric…

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I had such a lovely day and met some lovely ladies who helped each other and had some good chats along the way. Sometimes it’s the contact with other like-minded people which makes these sorts of classes perfect. Here’s another pic showing just how much fabric there is in this dress!!

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I have to say I’ve been doing a lot of swishing…

And sew it begins…

What? You may ask… Well the World Cup, obviously. The tension has been building for weeks and now the waiting is over… For my husband and 3 sons that is. Day 2 and I’ve lost the will to live. Every telly in my house had either a match on it, pre-match discussion or post-match analysis, what am I going to do??
Answer? Sew…
Today I have managed to make a lined pencil skirt, from scratch, that is draft a skirt block from measurements (in this case my friend) draw a pattern from the block and make the skirt…

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Fully lined as well! I’m feeling very pleased with myself! I also managed to make a kimono jacket, paint some shelves and load the car ready for a car boot tomorrow (you can see how much I love football). Maybe after my madeless May (lost my sewjo) I have the motivation I need to get creative! (ie. anything but football) could be a productive few weeks!!

When Jane met Megan…

Well if you are a fellow sewist / blogger type person, you would have to have been locked in a dark room to not have seen the new book from Tilly and the Buttons called Love at First Stitch. I bought mine through Tilly’s shop and my signed copy dropped onto my doormat on Friday morning! It’s a great book, as Tilly says it’s the book she wishes she’d had when she started sewing and I can see why. It has really clear instructions accompanied by easy to follow photographs ( love that…can’t cook a recipe unless I can see what it’s supposed to look like!) which make all the difference in understanding something new. Although I’ve been sewing a loooonnnnggg time I was interested in seeing how this book would turn out. I only started blogging last August and it’s all still fairly new to me, but I can honestly say that Tilly’s site was one of the first I read and inspired me to claw back my long lost passion for sewing, so buying the book was something I was always going to do.

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The ulterior motive though was the fact that there are 6 patterns in this book, not one or two…SIX!! Plus a tutorial for the Brigitte scarf. Have you seen the skirt on the cover!? Anyway having pored over the book most of Saturday morning instead of doing the cleaning, (dust? What dust?) I decided I needed to make the Megan…

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This dress is brilliant, I love it. It’s a classic shape, the pattern is very easy to follow and is really well drafted. I read with interest Alana’s from Lazy Stitching’s post on ‘a curvy perspective’ on Tilly’s book, I wondered whether the patterns would work for someone like me, 5’10” size 18/20, but do you know what? It doesn’t matter what size I am, all the wonderful blogs I read are of people of all shapes and sizes and regardless of whether you would label them ‘plus size’ or not they ALL talk about alterations they make to patterns to make them their own and to make them fit. I’m developing my own formula for dresses. I need to cut a size 16 neck and shoulders, grade out to an 18 under the arm, probably do an FBA and grade out a couple of centimetres at the hip beyond the 18. I need an inch extra length in the bodice and a few on the skirt length for my preferred length. This is now just something I need to do to patterns much the same as other people will shorten, grade out / in to make their pattern fit and that is part of the joy of making our own clothes. After some serious deliberation as to what to make first, I decided to make the Megan dress. I started with my high bust measurement which matched the size 6 on the pattern, traced the neck and shoulders in this size then out to an 8 under the arm (probably the only occasion I can say I’m a size 8!!!) as I need this size sleeve so I need the armhole to match, plus it gives me more room across the bust. However after measuring there wasn’t enough room, so I needed the FBA. Here’s what I did…

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1. Cut a horizontal line through the middle of the dart from the side seam to the apex, cut a line vertically down from the apex to the waist seam and cut a diagonal line up towards the armhole leaving 1.5cm for the seam allowance.
2. Moved the pieces so the space between the two vertical parallel pieces is the amount of the FBA needed, in my case 1″
3. Cut a horizontal line across from the centre front so the waist pieces match.
4. Normally at this point I can stop and retrace my pattern piece, but I noticed that the dart was now quite big and the fabric I was using had a directional print, on a plain fabric it would not matter. To resolve this I moved the legs of the dart together which turned the dart into the waist seam. My intention then was to gather the excess created into the waist seam. My new pattern piece looked like this…

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At this point I added 1″ in length, I’ve learned (to my cost!) to do the lengthening AFTER the FBA as the process give some extra length anyway, I added an inch, so did the same to the back pattern piece so the side seams were the same.

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I have put the gather line in, it’s roughly a third of the length of the new pattern piece, keeping it flat under the arm and centre front, but you could have gathers all the way along if you wanted or even pleat it!
Phew! I’ve waffled on a bit there, hope it helps someone!! I am thrilled to bits with this dress, I wore it to work today and felt really smart in it and that’s what this sewing lark is all about isn’t it? To make us feel good??
Back to the book, I’m now looking at what to do next, Lilou is looking favourite. Two words to sum up this book?…Buy it.

Spice Trail from the East

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That’s the name of this lovely cardigan! I found this free pattern on Ravelry, I wanted to try something that looked a bit different and this jumped out at me. I thought it would be really difficult, but in actual fact it wasn’t too bad at all, once you’ve established the pattern it’s very straightforward. I knitted it up in a couple of weeks, knitting in the evening in front of the telly. I used an acrylic DK, which (after much googling) I found cannot be wet blocked. I’m new to this process so after trawling around a bit more, I found some different ways to do it. I ended up using this one, which advises using a steam iron, which worked fine although I did get a bit close with the iron on a couple of patches which made it a little shiny – nothing too drastic though!! The bit I really like about the pattern was that there was no rib to add on at the end, it’s knitted in as you go along, great for me as adding rib to a cardi / jumper is something I really don’t do very well, I seem to end up with loopy gaps between the ribbing and the main part if the garment…need to work on that. Anyway that wasn’t the case with this piece, I will definitely be making it again because it turned out quite well! May have to put down the knitting needles for a bit though, there’s something not quite right about knitting in summer…

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Afternoon Blouse…Made in an Evening

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This is the Afternoon Blouse pattern by Jennifer Lauren Vintage, it’s a lovely short kimono sleeved pattern, definitely with a vintage vibe! I was really drawn to it when I saw it, the kimono sleeve seems to work on me so off I went to the Etsy shop! As with all the patterns I have tried I have to do an FBA, so this time I thought I would photograph exactly what I did, it may help someone who has the the same *ahem* issues as me. After now trying several patterns I am rapidly learning that I am an inverted triangle!! I need to start off with getting the shoulders and neck right and then work from there. If I follow my higher bust measurement, I am a size 16, most of my shop bought clothes are an 18, because of my full bust measurement. For this pattern I decided to go with the 18, (in actual fact I could have gone to the 16 for the neck and shoulder fitting, when will I learn!) an 18 is fine though because of the kimono shape, but on measuring the pieces I still needed an FBA, so this is how I did it…it’s a bit wordy, but hopefully it makes sense:

On a kimono sleeve pattern the sleeve shaping needs to be removed, to allow the adjustment to work without affecting the armhole:

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At this point you need to mark on the pattern piece where the apex of the bust will be, I held the pattern piece up to my body, lined up the centre front (be aware there is a seam allowance on this pattern) with my centre front and lined up where the shoulder would fall. Once you have marked the apex , I have found that the resulting dart sits better if you mark a second point directly above the apex, the distance being the amount of your FBA, so if you need 1″ you would make a mark 1″ above your apex, this will be where you draw your lines from, this is because when you cut the pattern piece it moves down, so your dart will end up to low if you don’t make the second mark. From here you draw a line straight down to the hem and another diagonally into the armhole (mine was about 2/3 of the way down) and a line straight across to the side seam under the sleeve.

Cut up from the waist to the arm leaving a little bit at the end uncut to make a hinge:

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Then cut from the side seam to the point where all the lines meet, again leaving a little hinge:

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You can see now you have created a dart under the arm. The two parallel vertical pieces of pattern should be the distance apart of your measured FBA, so if you need 1″ you need to move the pieces so you get the right measurement. Once that is done you will see that the hem on the side part has dropped, you need to cut the piece with the centre front horizontally into two and move the lower part down to match the hem at the side:

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Although this now looks longer than the back piece, the dart will make the side seam the same length as the back piece and the extra length at the centre front will drape over the bust.
Once this is done you need to fill the gaps!! I just use the same paper I print it on. When you get to the dart you need to make the right shape to create enough fabric for the fold in the dart. I just stick on an extra piece of paper (1), fold the dart edges together to mimic the dart being sewn (2) and trim off the excess, when you open it up it will make the shape for the dart (3).

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Nearly done! All that is left is to reattach the sleeve piece, you will see that after the alteration of the main bodice piece, there is a slight gap between the sleeve and bodice, again a bit of paper stuck on does the job!

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And there you have it, a new pattern piece with a dart incorporated for those of us who need it!

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After the adjustment, once you’ve cut out your fabric, I would sew in the darts then follow all of Jenny’s instructions. This blouse was very easy to put together, the instructions are very clear, once I had my pieces cut out it took me an evening to sew. I wore it the next day to work. I will be making it again it’s a good wardrobe staple for the summer.
Would I change anything next time round? Yes… my face on photos… I don’t like having my photo taken!!

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Wonderful Winifred!

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I have had the PDF version of this pattern since it came out, I really like the style of it and thought I could make it work for me. The pattern is called Winifred from Blue Ginger Doll. The pattern was easy to put together, but as with all patterns for me, that’s when the scissors came out!! The pattern is made for a D bust but even so, after much frowning, measuring and scratching of the head I still needed a hefty FBA, 5 inches to be precise, which I sort of didn’t believe but I have to believe the tape measure! I was interested to read that u and mii has blogged a beautiful version of this dress but came across the same problem. After doing the FBA I still had to lengthen the bodice by another inch to make the front darts sit in the right place. I added another half inch to the sleeve opening too. Given that I am 5ft 10, the skirt length was always going to be too short, as I’ve said before, I am not inflicting my knees on an unsuspecting public, so I added 10cm, a lot I know but I figured I could always go shorter. I actual fact, it’s pretty spot on. Construction was easy, I overlocked all the pieces to neaten edges my fabric is light and very drapy which meant I interfaced the belt pieces to give it a bit more structure. My only tricky bit was the collar, fitting it onto the back part of the dress, but after a few goes with the good old seam ripper I got there in the end. I am really pleased with the end result – it’s perfect for work, very comfortable but smart at the same time. I have seen lots of versions popping up on the internet, but my favourite so far is Heather’s collarless version, I love it, can be dressed up or down, worn with boots or sandals, I have some blue chambray in my stash, so you know what I’m thinking!! I would thoroughly recommend this pattern – a real go to dress – it’s in my TNT pile.

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